Bedding The Turk Action - Part 1 - Making The Pillar
"Bedding" an action is a way of providing a zero clearance fit between the action and the stock and a method of insuring that the effects of recoil are properly resisted by the stock. A skilled craftsman, with lots of time, and a new stock, can carve the stock to perfectly fit the action. I cannot do that and, if I could, usually I don't have a virgin piece of wood to work with. So, if you are like me, you could "Glass Bed" the action to the stock. "Glass Bedding" is a process of filling the voids between the wood and the action with some sort of epoxy resin. In some cases, wood is removed so as to loosen the action in the stock, so that when resin is used it is some thicker.
A rifle using a Mauser action can benefit, accuracy wise, from a good glass bedding job, and the Turk is no exception.
When I bed a Mauser action (like a Turk) in an existing stock, I start with the rear pillar. The pillar is nothing more than a piece of metal spanning the distance from the rear tang of the receiver to the rear tang of the lower strap or trigger guard. This piece has a hole thru which the rear action screw passes. A piece of metal with a hole thru it sounds like a pipe, and that is what we will use. Pillars in both stainless steel and aluminum are available from Brownells, but it is easier and just as good (and cheaper) to make your own.
The picture above shows the rear of a K.KALE action being measured to determine the length of the pillar. The front action screw is snug, the rear is loose. The magazine well is firmly against the receiver rails. The dial indicator is reading 1.192 inches. To the left are two pieces of "1/8 inch" pipe. This pipe measures a little less than 1/2 inch on the outside and about 1/4 inch inside. The correct trade name is 1/8 inch IPS, Schedule 40, or Standard Weight. Purchase a 4,5 or 6 inch steel nipple at the hardware outlet. (About $1.00) It will come in "black iron" or "Galvanized", with "black" being preferred, Galvanized OK. Measure your action, with the long screw a little loose, cut off the threads from one end of the nipple and cut a piece of the pipe (nipple) a little longer than the desired measurement. A hand hacksaw works fine. If you want to know what to do with the rest of the nipple - Check this out.
Drill (ream ?) thru the piece you cut off with a 5/16 drill. Holding the piece in a vise is best, but a pair of vise grips or Channel Lock pliers with the pipe held against a block of wood works well.
After drilling the inside, grind or file the outside, keeping the faces flat and parallel until the piece is just the right length. In this case, 1.192 inches. (Your action will be different !!!)
This is the finished pillar, ready to install in the stock. With your hacksaw or Dremel wheel, cut some "gashes" around the outside, BUT DO NOT CUT THRU THE WHOLE WAY. These gashes will help the epoxy get a grip on the pillar.