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Mosin-Nagant Trigger Mods 

Page 4

 

Once the filing/grinding are done, the end of the bar is cut, not through the center of the hole, but pert near the opposite end from the grinding. Once cut off, the little piece should be filed to remove burrs.

The little piece is fastened to the trigger with some iron tie wire. Remember that the bottom of the piece falls in line with the pinholes, and the piece is centered across the width of the trigger. Once it's all lined-up and tied-tite, a little silver solder is applied.

This photo shows double nuts for each adjustment. Ý Ý Ý

This photo shows the NyLock, single locking nuts. ß ß ß

Anouther view of the NyLock nuts. ß ß ß

After soldering, put it all back together, and adjust the nuts for over-travel, and pull. (You may want to put some Lock-Tite on the stud as it enters the tapped hole.)

WITH THE RIFLE UNLOADED!!!- install the bolt, cock, and fire. Move the nut nearest the receiver toward the little piece and keep cocking and firing. At some point, the trigger will fail to move far enough to cause the rifle to fire. At this point, back off on the nut JUST enough to allow the rifle to fire.

Now, begin to tighten the far nut, cocking and firing, until the rifle becomes unsafe (a hair trigger) then loosen the nut a little, and with the rifle cocked, bang it on a wood block, hit the butplate (hard) with a rubber mallet, try to make it fire. If it does, back off the nut some more.

Keep fine tuning until you are satisfied, and still have a safe rifle.

Another photo.

And another.

Lastly, remove just enough wood from the stock so that the newly installed pieces don't hit the wood

This is the stock after removing some wood. Now put the entire rifle back together, MAKE SURE IT'S UNLOADED, cock it and bang it around as a test. It should NOT fire unless you pull the trigger.

If you want to purchase the drill, tap, 5/16-inch bar, plain nuts and NyLock nuts, check out this one.

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