Tuning the Bolt Sleeve Lock

 

I have had a few Mausers that were a little hard to close; that is, they needed a little "push" on the bolt before the bolt would turn down. This is usually not an issue for a hunting rifle, but is a real pain in prone position shooting. Most of the time the culprit is the "bolt sleeve lock". That's the little plunger whose function is to keep the bolt sleeve from unscrewing when the bolt is open.

The pencil is pointing to the lock plunger. Ý Ý Ý

This is it when the bolt is open. Ý Ý Ý In the top view, the bolt is free to rotate relative to the sleeve (thatís the thing that has the safety mounted to it); while in this view, the bolt and sleeve are locked together.

This is the lock plunger from below. Ý Ý Ý

To remove the plunger, it is pushed into the bolt sleeve, and the locking projection is rotated toward the body of the bolt, through the slot. Ý Ý Ý

If the projection is rotated far enough, the plunger will FLY out, as it is spring loaded.

After the plunger is removed, the spring behind it can be removed.

This is the plunger and bolt in the locked position. Ý Ý Ý

And this is the plunger and bolt in the unlocked position. When the bolt is closed, the plunger strikes the receiver and moves rearward (actually, the bolt moves forward) until the fat ring in the middle of the plunger moves out of the locking cut in the bolt body.

The pencil is touching the surface that needs to be "adjusted" so as to disengage a little earlier as the bolt closes.

Some of the leading edge of the upper plunger has been ground away, while the lower plunger is uncut. I used a cut-off wheel in a Dremel/Fordom tool. As with any "tuning", go slow and try often. It's hard to ADD metal, easy to remove.

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